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- Quintín Desmonts
- MUSHING
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At Gravity Scooters, we have been collaborating with mushers from all over the world for more than twenty-five years. Over this time, we have observed that the ideal moment to start pulling depends mainly on the breed and the individual type of dog.
Our collaborators — competitive mushers, trainers, breeders, and enthusiasts — all agree that a young dog should begin with gentle sessions, without any pulling load, and with plenty of positive reinforcement. Dogs love to play, so mushing must always remain a game. A solid foundation of motivation and trust is much more important than strength at this stage.
As manufacturers and passionate mushers, we know that respecting the dog’s natural rhythm not only improves performance but also ensures well-being.
A happy, motivated, and properly trained dog will enjoy pulling for many years.
For us, the true meaning of mushing is that dogs have fun together with their owners.
🐕 Until what age does a mushing dog grow, and when can it start training?
In mushing, the age to start training is not determined by the calendar but by the dog’s physical and mental maturity.
Each type of dog — from a traditional Siberian Husky to a racing Eurohound — has its own pace of development.
Understanding this is essential to avoid injuries and ensure a long, safe sporting career.
1. Physical growth: growth plates
The long bones of young dogs have cartilage zones at their ends called growth plates.
Until these plates close, the skeleton is not fully developed and remains vulnerable to overloading.
Any pulling exercise before they have closed can cause joint injuries or bone deformities.
Therefore, we must wait until we are sure the dog has finished growing and its bones are fully formed before letting it pull.
You can confirm this with a veterinarian, or, if you know your dog’s breed well, you will recognize when it’s ready.
2. Indicative table of development rate by mushing dog type
| Morphological type | Example breeds or crosses | Average adult weight | Approximate physical maturity age | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic Nordics | Siberian Husky, Malamute, Samoyed | 20–45 kg | 15–18 months | Slow growth; need to consolidate musculature before pulling. Very strong, love to pull, but usually slow. Ideal for middle distance. |
| Medium- and high-speed crosses | Alaskan, Greyster, Greyhound, Pointer | 25–35 kg | 12–15 months | Fast development; can start training earlier, always progressively. Very fast, fragile, require quality terrain. Ideal for scooters. |
| Medium breeds | Pointers, Border Collies, mixed | 17–30 kg | 10–12 months | Lighter build, growth plates close earlier, but muscles still need strengthening. Ideal for multiple-dog teams. |
3. Recommended training phases
🐶 Phase 1 – Familiarization (from 5–6 months)
Introduce the pulling harness without any work. Practice putting it on and taking it off. Since it will still be too large, don’t leave it on for long.
Walk the dog on the trails where you plan to practice mushing so its pads gradually adapt.
Accustom the dog to light activity through positive experiences such as play and walks. Let it enjoy running freely.
Start teaching the basic direction commands: Gee = right, Haw = left, Hike = go, Stop = halt. Focus especially on “Stop” and “Sit.”
If possible, let the young dog run freely alongside experienced adults while they are mushing.
🎯 Goal: build motivation, bond, trust, and obedience — but not strength yet.
🐕 Phase 2 – Light pulling (from 10–12 months)
irst, make sure the dog shows a mature body structure and good physical condition.
Check that the harness fits properly: the trachea must stay free of pressure, it should fit snugly around the neck and chest, and it must never rest on the shoulder blades.
Begin training with short sessions (1–2 km), without hills, at temperatures below 10 °C, and on smooth terrain free of stones that could injure the still-sensitive pads.
Maintain a controlled pace with plenty of positive reinforcement. Never push the dog to go faster — it should gain strength and speed gradually.
This stage is about strengthening muscles, pads, and the bond with the musher. Feed and hydrate after training, never before.
Always check for signs of lameness, fatigue, lack of interest, or overheating. Any of these should make you stop immediately and investigate further.
⚠️ For heavy Nordic dogs (Huskies, Malamutes), it’s better to wait 15–18 months before pulling.
🐕🦺 Phase 3 – Full training (from 14–18 months)
Gradually increase the training intensity.
Each mushing discipline requires different conditioning, but in general:
Sprint dogs (Greyhounds and similar) reach their peak around 2 years old, then slightly decline but maintain form until about seven. They train in sets up to 5 km, sometimes several times per day. They work both on leash and off leash, often alongside fast electric scooters (over 45 km/h) to build stride and speed. Pay special attention to terrain quality and temperature.
Nordic dogs: perfect for middle distance. They have a strong mushing instinct and require little teaching. Not fast, but very powerful; more work should go into command training.
Other mixed dogs: highly variable. The key is to understand each dog and not overwhelm it — whether from heat, overwork, or excessive commands. Dogs love mushing, but external factors can make them dislike it.
Include endurance, pulling technique, recovery, and rest in training.
Depending on the discipline, these are developed differently:
for middle distance, aim for a steady, fast trot sustained over hours; for sprint, build the ability to maintain 5 km at full speed.
Huskies have a natural pulling technique, but others may need to learn to push with both hind legs simultaneously to gain traction.
For dogs, mushing feels like group hunting — after the physical excitement comes food and rest. It’s important to keep the dog comfortable and centered so it can perform at its best.
Always monitor joints, pads, and overall condition. Observe the dog while running and examine it afterward: lameness, unusual movements, blood, wounds, or excessively thick saliva are all warning signs to recognize quickly. Once detected, treat them appropriately or consult a vet.
🩺 Recommended: a sports veterinary check before the start of the season.
4. Factors influencing training
Genetics and body size → directly affect the closure of growth plates and muscle development. They determine when a dog can safely start mushing.
Nutrition and weight → excess weight delays development and overloads the joints. For sport, it’s best to avoid being overweight, especially at the beginning. Proper nutrition and hydration are essential.
Type of terrain and surface → avoid sharp, hard, or abrasive surfaces (asphalt, concrete, etc.). Avoid steep climbs. Ideal terrain: slightly packed powder snow or firm, moist soil. At first, strengthen the dog’s pads gradually. Look for cool, quiet, flat trails with few stones.
Ambient temperature → temperature control is crucial. Above 10 °C, there is a risk of fatal hyperthermia, and mushing should be avoided. Between 0 °C and 10 °C, take extra precautions: monitor saliva consistency, cool the dog frequently with cold water, and have ways to lower its temperature quickly. The higher the temperature, the shorter the distance before checking the dogs again. Dogs lose heat only through their mouth and pads — they evolved for cold climates and do not sweat. Hence, harnesses must never compress the trachea. When temperatures approach 0 °C, dogs often gain an energy boost — it’s their natural comfort zone.
Dog motivation → most dogs enjoy pulling, but some don’t, and they must not be forced. Mushing is a game, not an obligation. Starting gently and progressively helps most dogs enjoy it, but not 100 %. Why do dogs love mushing so much? The structure of a long-distance sled team mirrors that of a wolf pack: the leader in front, the pack in the middle, and the strongest young ones behind. That’s how dogs feel when mushing — connected to their instincts and happy. Dogs are also athletic by nature and enjoy feeling strong. Most of all, mushing gives purpose to a dog’s life: it’s exercising with its human, playing at hunting together, feeling useful. The bond that forms between dog and musher is powerful and lasts a lifetime.
Harness and accessories → the lighter and better fitting, the better. Some brands only make six or seven sizes, so a perfect fit is rare. Ideally, try it on with an expert before buying. Avoid harnesses with rigid or adjustable parts. The lines should be lightweight and as horizontal as possible — too much angle is harmful. The bungee section should be short, just enough to absorb shock without stealing the dog’s effort. A mushing antenna (to keep the line clear of the front wheel) is highly recommended. A quick-release snap adds convenience and extra safety that can prevent accidents.
5. Conclusion
Mushing dogs start at different ages, never before 12 months, depending on their breed characteristics.
The key isn’t when to start, but how to prepare the dog before pulling: trust, technique, and muscle conditioning.
Strengthening the pads, practicing obedience, and developing muscle strength are essential steps before starting mushing.
Not all dogs are passionate about it, and that must be respected. Starting gradually, respecting proper temperatures, and avoiding excessive fatigue are essential to create a great mushing partner.
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